San Clemente, CA
"Being immersed in the ocean during its wildest states, learning to control my mind and overcome the feelings of fear, harnessing my personal energy and bringing it in sync with the rhythm of the swells brings about a level of excitement and gratification that is unrivaled."
Big wave surfer Greg Long got his start on the beach in San Clemente, where his father, a professional lifeguard, instilled in him a deep respect for the ocean and its power, and a methodical approach to understanding its constantly changing conditions. This deep understanding has carried over into Greg’s decorated career as a professional surfer. Over two decades, he’s been awarded multiple XXL Global Big Wave Awards, including Biggest Wave, Ride of the Year, and Performer of the year. He was the 2012 and 2016 Big Wave World Tour Champion, and he’s won multiple competitions, including the 2009 Eddie Aikau and the 2005 Titans of Mavericks. Aside from chasing storms and riding giant waves, Greg fosters the sport he loves as a spokesman, and is involved in the Surfrider Foundation, Save the Waves and Sustainable Surf.
First surfing memory:
I can still remember my very first wave that my dad pushed me into when I was 7 years old. I was only on my feet for a second but the feeling was indescribable, and I knew then that I wanted to surf forever.
Why big wave surfing:
Because it’s the most physically and mentally challenging facet of surfing.